Wandering

Not much has changed since I last posted here: Denise is still in the U.S., but there’s now a plan in place for her to return, so that’s a relief. My days are still mostly centered around long dog walks in Porto, where Coco and I choose a general direction or landmark, and then make a morning of it. Porto has a charming and concentrated central historical district but there are many interesting neighborhoods that sprawl outward from that relatively small area and my goal is to walk through as many of those as possible. The upside of this plan is that I can largely avoid the tourist throngs that descend on Porto from May through October and more clearly see the city in an effort to evaluate its livability. I love Porto but the number of tourists here — and their impact on basic enjoyment of the city — is really stunning. I have mostly avoided the main tourist spots, partly because of the crush and partly because most of them don’t allow dogs.

I consider Denise and myself to be travelers, not tourists, and I know there’s some problems with that claim since we are using Airbnb for most of our housing, and they contribute to more problems than they solve, especially in places like Porto. But we are here to learn about the culture, pick up some of the language, and, most of all, try to blend in with the locals rather than stick out like a sore thumb. Since there aren’t many adventures to report, I’ll just do photos here and let the captions (and the hyper-links) do the ‘splainin’. Denise sent along some more pictures of her own from California so I’ll include those here as well. Off we go!

Let’s get the A.F.C. out of the way first thing! This post will focus on more of the secular buildings of Porto but you gotta appreciate the sheer volume and beauty of the churches here
The interior of that church, Igreja de San Jose das Taipas. Not too shabby.
This is Parque das Virtudes, a little pocket park with a nice view of the Duoro River looking towards Foz and the Atlantic Ocean. I didn’t realize that I’d caught a bird in mid-flight until after I took the picture.
This is the Porto Town Hall and the Plaza, or Praça, Liberdade, which is an architectural bonanza.
Praça Liberdade
A detail of a Praça Liberdade building.
Monumental Hotel on Liberdade.
Liberdade again.
Population 5 at a neighborhood festival.
Population 5 guitar section. Dan Armstrong copy on the left and Phil has a Jazzmaster- for all you guitar nerds.
Coco rocking out.
Palace of Justice.
Igreja do Carmo. The Porto tile game is off the charts, especially on the churches.
They may have jumped the gun a little on roasted chestnut season — it was 80 degrees today — but you can’t argue with the aromas.
UPTEC is a science and technology program which unites businesses with students for projects. I dunno, I just liked the art.
Mural on the side of UPTEC.
Super Bock Arena at Jardins do Palåcio de Cristal. Lots of show scheduled here, such as…
We’ll just miss this “experience” but the Michael Jackson show is coming up so maybe I can ask Janet to get me on the list.
Museum. That’s all I’ve got, sorry. I can’t go in with the dog so…
Brutalist hospital stairs.
Street Art. The bottom one translate roughly to “Longing: 500mg.”
Another pocket church. Igreja Evangelica. Our Lady of Angelica Huston.
Museum of Outdated Technology.
I dunno, I liked the way this window looked. It’s a free blog so you can’t complain about my whims.
I bought this bread at Generosa Pizza, a place that moonlights as a bakery.
Trying to squeeze as many American things as possible onto one shirt… one of the few that doesn’t say “surf.”
This is the Department of Defense building in Oz. I mean, Porto.




Typical Porto apartment with wrought-iron balconies and rotting out windows.
Oh, If I ever get to design our house, I’m definitely stealing these doors.
Not as kinky as you might imagine.
Casa Musica, a brutalist performance space.
Casa Musica interior cushy sculpture.
More wrought-iron doors.
Now I realize that I have to go back to the bookstore for a t-shirt.
It’s in an ugly shopping mall too!
A theme develops…
What could go wrong?
Amusing street art!
1944
Away from the tourist areas, the apartments don’t put on appearances.
You are not staying in a cute city unless there is a TinTin-themed bookstore.
This is a gorgeous home in an upscale neighborhood on the hill above my neighborhood.
And this place was just a block or so away from that cute blue house.
Copyright infringement alert! Any Disney lawyers here?
I hereby christen this typeface “Belma.”
Triple-lot fixer upper in good location. Bring your plans and dreams!
Coco entering Parque Covelo, one of the coolest parks I have found in Porto.
They kept a lot of the park wild and this area reminds me of something from San Francisco or even Central Park on the south end.
Parque Covelo even has a water feature.
Art installation in a different park. Denise would have looked great standing next to this with her matching backpack.
Installation at Marques.
Another broken dream.
I had a nice chat with the proprietor here. They can currently only sell CBD products but they are hoping that EU legalization is imminent. Germany has a vote coming up in 2024.
Oh! a Bentley SUV.! someone has I guess too much money!
Facade of Metro train station.
I finally figured out that dogs are allowed on the Metro (got some bad information early on) and we took a trip to Nova de Gaia.
Which is not the most beautiful place in Portugal. To be fair, I stayed on the main drag so as not to get lost. There are very pretty parts of NdG. Probably.
But really, the best part of Gaia is that you get to look back across the river at Porto.
Dizzying shot from the Gaia side of Dom Luis I Bridge.
Duoro River, looking up-river to where the Port comes from.
Ribeira in Porto from top deck of Dom Luis I Bridge.
And looking back on Gaia: a lot of those buildings are Port wine storage or tasting rooms and are mostly owned by the British.
Looking back on the bridge and Gaia.
Not exactly sure what this building is but it looks important.
Porto balconies.
Today, I took a Metro out to Matosinhos, a fishing village northwest of Porto.
Explanation of the statue.
This was supposed to be a picture of the architecturally significant cruise ship terminal at Matosinhos but the fog rolled in very quickly.
Restaurant facade with textured glass.
I took a shot of this parking garage before but this is from a different angle.
Closer still…
No caption.
Living wall

Okay, that’s my roundup of Porto photos. Let’s see what Denise has from L.A. She is getting to see family and do some great eating.

Denise, brother-in-law Ken, sister Nora, and Finn at lunch in LA>
California Trees. Not sure what they’re called but I know Dr. Seuss grew up around here.
LA doorstep
To give Reilly equal time, here’s a shot he took at the Seattle Mariner’s game on Friday night. He bought cheap seats and moved down.
Back to Denise in LA: Yarn-bombing!
Cactii. Yarn.
Denise says “the water bottles look like shampoo- and are almost as expensive!”
A different Venice.
With dear sister Ann.
Down at the older end of Hollywood Boulevard. Mr Arbuckle was riding high until a scandal brought him down in 1921.
Aileen is still big, it’s the pictures that got small.
Back to Porto for a couple of last shots: a statue depicting the Portuguese victory (with England’s help) of the Napoleonic forces in the Peninsular War, 1807-1814. I don’t think we’ve been anywhere on this journey where Napoleon didn’t try to take it over.
Yikes! Doesn’t look llike any fun at all. The poor horse.

That’s all folks, at least for now. Hopefully, Denise will be back soon and our real adventures will resume. We still have a month in Porto before we head south for some time on the beach.

Published by Steve, Denise, and Coco: Calculating Route

Welcome to our blog that we’re calling Calculating Route…, a reference to our GPS guide and the general randomness of our travels. Of course, we do have a route, at least through the end of 2023, but we’re trying to keep our options open in the search for a permanent, or semi-permanent, home here in Greater Europe. Off we go!

4 thoughts on “Wandering

  1. Hi Seve and Denise

    By now Denise has arrived in Portugal and both of you have resumed your travels with CoCo. I’m just off the phone with Eileen who tells me she loves your blog. I’m glad that things are improving for Finn and he has family to look after him.

    I have been meaning to write to let you know how impressed I am with your journal. You cover a lot of ground and seem to have a lot of antennas for different kinds of information. Food, beer, culture, history, politics, city layout, etc. You have a talent for writing that comes across as natural with an observant everyman voice. It’s quite good. The photos are simple and minimal but seem to convey a sense of the places you describe very well. Something will come of this.

    Strange how we arrive at where we are.

    Pat

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