Denise rejoins the pack! Pictured here with Coco in front of the giant Porto sign in front of the town hall. Almost every town has one of these kind of signs nowadays, designed to promote tourism via social media. I had managed to evade the thing but Denise loves a big sign.
Denise is back! She arrived last week, much to the delight of Coco and me: the pack is back together. It was an arduous 30-hour journey for her, from Portland, Oregon to Porto, Portugal, with stops in Los Angeles, Paris, and Madrid before finally touching down here late Tuesday night. With an itinerary like that, it would take her a few days to get reacquainted with Portuguese time but she was up on Wednesday morning, ready to start exploring Porto, despite the jetlag.
Before moving on to present day highlights, we should say that Finn is back in Portland and doing great: he’s moved into our basement apartment and got his old job back at Settlemiers, working on the design team, doing collaborations with Nike. Denise wants to name check some of the many family and friends who helped her and Finn in small and big ways during her time in the States, and are continuing to help in so many ways! Big cheers and thanks to Nora and Ken Ross, Reilly, Sarah Whistler, Marianne Mullen and Chris Cirillo, Connie Hendrix and Todd Freeman, Sean and Izumi Mullen, Joe and Becca Mullen, Bridget Stolee, Ann and Sean Mullen, Karen and John from next door, Eileen and Richard Stolee, Holly Haber, Greg Perrin and Gail Butensky, Pat and Tim, Pat Slattery, Therese Randall, Vicki and Rosie Amorose, Blake Swensen, Katie Boucher, Chuck and Karen Michener, Maureen and Louie Melchor, Mark and Elaine Israel, and Ginni Harriman. All stand and take a bow. Now it’s back to Porto!
Here’s the video of the reunion between dog and Dee. I know, I know… I should have shot this in landscape mode, but look at those rich browns.
Naturally, the first place I had to show her was Coco’s dog park, where she had learned some new tricks. With Denise gone for seven weeks, I took over as Coco’s alpha human by default, much to Dee’s chagrin, so she’s working on regaining her “top-dog” status. After that, it was off to the Ribeira, or riverfront, where we had fallen in love with Porto in 2019, pausing for some glamor shots on the Dom Luîs I Bridge. The next few days, we did more of the same, exploring parts of the city that I had uncovered in her absence. It was fun seeing the places through Denise’s eyes and she pointed out a lot of things that I had missed.
Another made-for-tourists shot: one of the traditional boats used to haul Port wine from the facilities up the Douro River down to Gaia for aging. Golden hour on the Dom Luis I BridgeSunlight can even sometimes make me look good…The other side of the bridge, looking towards Gaia. More of that disused housing stock on the Ribeira.
Unfortunately, we then lost a few days to a bout of Covid that Denise caught either in Portland or in her travels. Luckily, thanks to my nursing training, I managed to avoid contagion. In addition, her arrival coincided with the rainy season here and so our wanderings are generally timed to avoid the worst of the downpours. We are from the Pacific Northwest so, naturally, we have good rain gear — the Tripeiros seem to prefer the umbrella as the first line of defense against the moisture — but it’s still a lot less fun to walk around when it’s raining. Sometimes, we get lucky and make it home before the downpours, and other times we arrive drenched. What can you do? I should mention that Coco hates the rain and will often flat out refuse to walk when it’s more than drizzling. We’ve gotten our steps in when possible but we’ve also received numerous warnings from the Portugal Emergency Notification Service via text about “coastal events” and “heavy rain, localized flooding, and high winds.” My advice to tourists planning on visiting northern Portugal on the Atlantic Ocean would be to get out by mid-October at the latest.
More Student Demonstration Time. These hardy protestors braved the rain. We spent a lot of time under the Trindade Station overhang, waiting out the rain so we could throw the ball for Coco. For those of you watching my National Geographic Network show, In Search of the Ford Sign, Denise helped me find this vantage point, the best shot so far. The smokestack to the left actually belongs to the cemetery, not sure why they would have one of those…Here’s a blurry shot of those caped students from U of Porto, taken from the roof of the Trindade station. They’re up to no good, I’m sure of it.
We are leaving here next week, heading south to the drier, warmer, and, hopefully, sunnier Algarve district of Portugal, staying in Altura, a small, rural town hard by the Atlantic. After seven weeks in the big city, I’m ready for some small town energy. Today, I purposefully stepped in front of a speeding BMW — always the German cars — that was barreling down the small alley near our house at a dangerous speed. This same guy had nearly hit Coco the other day as I struggled to get her out of the way so I was ready for him this time. After he stopped, I gave him some helpful tips on his driving style and he let me know what he thought of my mother. I think it’s time I got to a remote area with fewer cars and fewer people. The best part of our next stop is that our oldest son Reilly is going to join us for a week or so. He found a cheap airfare from Portland and is looking forward to spending a week with us on the beach, his happy place. We are getting another car from the French leasing scheme before we head down that way so we’ll be able to explore the Algarve and parts of Andalucia in Spain. We were planning a trip with Reilly to Morocco but their recent earthquake put an end to that adventure.
Here’s Reilly, back in Portland with Denise, celebrating his 25th birthday with friends and family. Here’s the gang in Portland, relaxing after cake. And Finn, who really, really liked the cake. And no, he probably can’t name three Rolling Stones songs.
I feel like I’ve covered Porto pretty well in previous editions so, for the rest of the story, we’ll let the photos and the captions (mis)lead you.
Our balcony-patio at night. On the Rua de Flores. I read the sign but can’t remember what the original use of the building was. Another example of Porto’s fine architecture and tile work. Non-traditional tile art by Berriblue, whose work appears in various sites around the Cedofeita neighborhood Cool mural in the Cedofeita district. Materia Prima: a very hip book, ‘zine, and record shop on Rua de Miguel Bombarda, the arts street. Remember this hotel! The British Council. Here to keep an eye on the Port wine. Built in 1893 when wrought iron was, apparently, going cheaply. Denise was bored being sick with the COVID and, using AI, made this portrait of Coco.Okay, NOW it’s chestnut season! Half-dozen chestnuts, roasted on an open fire. Not surprisingly, they taste like nuts. Meaty, smoked nuts. They’re worth trying but I wouldn’t wait in line for them again. We discovered where all the spray paint for the murals comes from in a shop near Trindade. Denise makes friends wherever she goes…Salazar-era apartments. Porto in a nutshell: cool old building, but falling apart. For sale. Bring your contractor! Finally made it inside the Lisbon School of Design, featured in a prior blog post. Sadly, they don’t sell T-shirts but they do have a cool lobby view. Cool sign outside vintage theater. Sadly, we missed Plim. The cinema. A different kind of cinema…Repeating my joke from our 2019 visit to these tile works in the Såo Bento train station: The three seats of power in 17th century Portugal, L to R- the King, the Archbishop, and the general manager of the regional Peugeot dealerships. These Såo Bento tile works were restored recently restored to their original blue. Part of our “Cool Sign” collection, coming soon to a bookstore near you (after the A.F.C.coffee table book). Coco and I had walked past this store many times but Denise dragged us inside. It’s a Leica dealership but also a museum of their old cameras and lenses, as well as a photo gallery. Truly amazing. Here’s a link Zooming in: eat your heart out, Wes Anderson. Breakfast on the patio with coffee, juice, granola with yogurt and my pills. Poster for a housing rights demonstration.Finally found a place to get my player-piano repaired! Love the sign with silhouetted letters above Rua do Almada. And I didn’t need spell check to get “silhouetted” right on the first guess! The old trolley tracks run through this store on Almada. Portuguese Folk and murder ballads. Orderly barber shop.Deco-brutalist balconies on Rua da AlegriaWatching the news…Fixing cars since before they were even invented. Taking turns in the guard hut outside the Museum of Portuguese Military History. I would have probably been assigned elsewhere. Ancient water fountains that were uncovered during the construction of the subway station. Two euros for two minutes to the States. What if I do both? Unfortunately, it looks like that “K” is an imposter. Yikes. 2020 was the International Year of the Nurse? Thanks, that was a great year to pick.I took Denise out of Parque do Covelo to see the water feature. Gotta get a Donk Cut! Much like the Spanish “Menu del Dia,” the Portuguese restaurants often have a four-course lunch for a good price. Five courses here for seven euros. Make sure you zoom in on the window treatments of the center building…Great wine from Setabul district. Surfing school at Matosinhos Beach. Coco loves the beach almost as much as Reilly does. The last time I was here, the architecturally significant cruise terminal was shrouded in fog so here you go! The fishing net-public art installation in Matosinhos, a large fishing community just north of Porto. The net sways in the breeze. Car included for scale. Cannon at the old fort. Liberals throwing batteries at the Absolutists. Can’t we all just get along? Denise in the parapet of the fort. Once I got my player piano fixed, I had to get my radio components sorted. If we’d found this earlier, it might have been a contender for the name of our blog.
Okay, that’s enough of that! We’ll report in from the Algarve soon!
Published by Steve, Denise, and Coco: Calculating Route
Welcome to our blog that we’re calling Calculating Route…, a reference to our GPS guide and the general randomness of our travels. Of course, we do have a route, at least through the end of 2023, but we’re trying to keep our options open in the search for a permanent, or semi-permanent, home here in Greater Europe. Off we go!
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5 thoughts on “Reunited and It Feels So Good…”
I laughed out loud a few times! Very funny commentary! Love the photos too!
A Very good travel Log. Quite knowledgeable about the local history and culture, (high and low). You both cover a lot of ground and you look clean in all your photos. Keep the posts coming.
I laughed out loud a few times! Very funny commentary! Love the photos too!
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I’m so glad you are reunited and great photos of Porto!
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A Very good travel Log. Quite knowledgeable about the local history and culture, (high and low). You both cover a lot of ground and you look clean in all your photos. Keep the posts coming.
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Thanks Patrick!
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I loved this instalment – you are hands down the best captioner in the blogosphere – and one of the best photographers!
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